I removed and washed the canvases once this Leclerc Nilart 12 harness loom made it home with me. Canvases were attached with staples. A stout, dull letter opener was able to be inserted between the staples and the cloth without cutting the later. Canvases should be attached with carpentry tacks. Carpentry tacks may have come with the original unit, as there was a pack of them included in the items that I brought home with the loom. Washing made the canvases much cleaner. I washed them in hot water; I did not put them through the drier. The pockets that hold the warping bars frayed. Today I trimmed these pockets, a necessity as these threads can get in the way and hinder attachment of the warp.
It’s -31 this morning. I hauled the stock tanks inside and after they thawed I installed the fixtures on them. It may not seem like much, but it took a half an hour, and each act adds up when it comes to preparing for washing wool. These faucets are thermally rated to 180F…
1 – hot water
2- steel stock tank w galvanized grating 2″ off bottom
3 – drain plugs
4 – propane heater
5 – skirting / drying racks (4 x 4 or 2 x 2 wire w 2×4 frame on saw horses)
6 – detergent (Norwex / some report Tide does just as well?)
Skirt wool on skirting racks. Pull into small pieces. Discard any felted/too dirty wool and shorts. Wool will clean itself in doing so – this procedure is critical in that it makes it much easier to wash if cleaned well.
Water needs to be between 150 – 160F (65 – 70C). Detergent needs to be added before adding the wool o that it does not form suds. Add wool to water. Gently press down. Maintain temperature of water. Water at top will cool. Gently press wool down every 5 minutes (approx.) in order to circulate water (note: consider how to achieve this without agitation). Do not agitate at all during washing / rinse. Drain. Repeat.
(*Note: The principles behind this procedure was outlined to me by a commercial wool processor from the region. While discussing the particulars of my own life here, it was thought that the above outline would work well. I have not yet tried this, but hope to do so within a week or two.)
Ever since last Tuesday my life in this solitary place has been a whirlwind. I live here because of the sweetness that I experience in nature on every side here. Sometimes that gets shattered – like a friend of mine who looked out of her house recently to see young men on snowmobiles purposefully running over threes that she had planted as an attempt to restore a field on her property back into woods. But the whirlwind that I name in this post today is not negative at all, but just one where things unfolded all too quickly over the past five days and from which I am only now catching my breath. Again, as on the day that I was given my wool…
…so over the next several days my truck needed immediate (emergency) use. So after unloading the bags of wool…
…I was (barely) able to pull the rest of the wool off of the truck bed by heaving on the tarp…
…it was covered and that’s where it has lain for the past several days as I now start to think through how to wash and then store it in bulk? …and where?
I am thinking that perhaps a metal watering trough would make a great wash basin that will allow me to process large lots at a time. More wool will be forthcoming this summer. And I have had a volunteer say that they will come and help…and so I’m thinking that if help arrives that I can offer to supply them with washed, mordanted, haskap-dyed wool as a thank you? It would be nice… :)
…following up on the original dying I did with haskap, here is a comparison of washed fibre (right) against the original, unwashed fibre (left). i purposefully washed this patch with hot water and Tide detergent to see how badly this would damage the colour. It did remove the brilliance of the original red and turned it a brown-russet. Again, this is just a base-line washing with a table salt mordant….fyi…(again, full sun on snow)